Friday, May 1, 2009

Day 2: To Larrasoaña: Trial By Mud (about 25kms)




























































































OMG, we had an absolute blast today.

We ended up overshooting the town we were initially aiming for (Zubiri), and ended up in Larrasoaña. GoogleMaps reckons it was about 31kms. I want to cut´n´paste a link to the route, but these computers have cut'n'paste disabled. WTF?

The fun part was that is was an absolute mud-fest!! We started off trying to avoid puddles and dirty bits, but by the end of the day, if it was shallower than about 4 inches of mud we´d just plough straight through the middle of it. It was sooooo much fun!!!

Once again we arrived absolutely shattered. It's a bloody long way carrying that sort of weight.

Hannah's speed & track-confidence has increased immensely since yesterday. Yesterday I could stop & take occasional (i.e. hundreds of) piccies, then fast walk to catch up. Theres´s no way I could do that today... she took off like a mad woman.

She ended up with a couple of blisters by the end of the day, and I think I undid a few months of physio, but other than that we´ve got no complaints. Within a few days we´ll barely notice the backpacks. Hehehe, actually I might revise that statement by the end of next week.

The only injury we´ve had was to my brand new wide angle lens. It survived most of the first day, but something must have happened right at the end of the day, because when I went to take a piccy of the abbey before bed last night, I took it out of it´s protective cover to the tinkle-tinkle of broken glass. Oops. Farewell 10-24mm lens! I loved thee well.

Most of today´s track was via dirt tracks off the main roads. It was longer and muddier than if we´d taken the direct route, but we´d have missed out on most of the scenery. There are quite a few people taking the main roads, and I don´t really see the point. Sure it´s faster, but...

Actually, we´ve noticed that people are taking shortcuts in quite a few different ways.
* Some people ride bikes, but they wizz through towns in 1 or 2 minutes that we´d spend much longer passing through. There´s so much variety here, they surely can´t be seeing it all.
* Some people take the main roads between towns. They miss out on so many river crossings (tiny stone-block ad-hoc bridges), flora & fauna... and they´re avoiding cars the whole time. People!! Get back on the ´real´tracks. :)
* Some people use baggage forwarding services, and instead of carrying their backpacks between towns, they just drop it off... and it appears clean & dry at the destination.

It´s a long weekend in Europe this weekend, so there´s a lot more pilgrims than normal, so it´s already becoming a bit of a race to the refuges each night. Each of the shortcuts above would help them get there sooner, so I can see the competitive advantage. But I do think it defeats the purpose of walking. Afterall, ´el camino´does mean ´the walk´.

At the same time, we´re both using high tech walking poles. I know some of the more traditional pilgrims see these as a shortcut too. We spent 6 months researching the lightest/best equipment we could afford, so I suppose everyone has to work out what they feel comfortable with. What some people consider shortcuts, others would consider optimisations. I think Hannah & I found a level that we were comfortable with: we´ll walk the entire distance on foot carrying everything we´ll need... but we´ll still make it as easy on ourselves as possible. We´re pilgrims, not martyrs. :)

Oops, started rambling...

5 mins before time cuts out.

We´re only about 12kms from Pamplona (where the Running Of The Bulls is held), so we´ll easily reach there by tomorrow morning. Maybe by about 10am. I´m tempted to look for a replacement wide angle lens there... my other lenses just can´t do the scenery justice. We´ll possibly stay there for the whole day and overnight. It seems like too important a place to just walk straight through.

So... that´s it for now. I´m still trying to get access to a computer where I can upload some photos.

Buen Camino!!

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