Day 20: Castrojeriz to Boadilla (20kms walked)

• Breakfast with Anne, the art teacher from Belgium who's constant enthusiasm rubs off on everyone.
• Finding out that the 'Ultreia' we've seen graffitied everywhere actually means 'callous', and comes from the ancient pilgrims that used to walk the Camino barefoot. The word was used in chants and songs to encourage eachother to continue walking. I think it's the ancient form of 'No pain; no gain'.
• I'm a little worried that my hiking shoes have worn through most of the grip underneath. Probably not coincidentally, this is the same part I've been feeling bruised everyday. I really don't want to have to break in a few pair of hiking shoes during the Camino. Will have to see how they go.
• Arriving in Boadilla, we were met on the outskirts of town by an old Spanish gentleman, abiyt 90 years old and not even 5 foot tall, wearing his military medals alongside badges for all around the world, with a cheeky glint in his eye. After a warm greeting he asked Hannah for two things:
• to write in his autograph/visitor's book
• for a kiss on the cheek
• We met him later in the albergue, where he argued loudly and jestfully with the young male host (hospitalero) about who's "amiga" Hannah was. I think the old guy won.